or just buy a front wheel drive turbo lazer. they actually all look the same for the most part. thats what i would do.

If you can, nab an AWD, it will just plain hook 10 times better.

-Ben

well, its supposed to be a sleeper. thats what im getting at.

No one will know it's AWD with the removal of the badges

-Ben

i don't think lazers came in awd did they? i thought plymouth was the low end non turbo non awd model only??? but then again dodge does make some pretty fucked up packages like buddies 80's lancer fwd turbo 240 hp factory ordered

i know they have a fwd turbo lazer but i dont know about awd.

well I was actually thinking about picking up a 1st gen DSM awd talon or eclipse for myself... although I was REALLY hopping on finding an old lancer. But that's a ways off, right now I'm stuck with a 2nd gen GSX, which I still have no problems with. Kyle says that he's in negotiations with the man to buy it right now. So we may be working on it sooner than we think. if you have any ideas on easy and effective mods we can do Uglystick please let us know. Phatmatt has advised us in some of the basic stuff and the dos and don'ts, but still told us to definately ask you what you thought.

2nd gen GSX... nice. First things first, throw on a nice 3" exhuast with a downpipe, and ditch the catylatic converter. You should make ample power off that alone, i'd venture to say 40 HP maybe. I'd ditch the side mount intercooler and go with a front mount and replace the tubing with 2.5 inch. And get a bost controler. Don't get wild with it though, the 16G turbo is a mid range turbo, so boost will fall off a little higher in the RPM's. I'd say 14-16 PSI. But find out from a good DSM site or message board before you crank the boost...

-Ben

That 16G is a pretty stable turbo. There is basically no lag on it and i think you can pick one up for under 800 bucks with a minimum of fuss. I personally would go with a T3/4 hybrid and a sprinkle of nitrous oxide to loose that turbo lag, but the 16G is not a bad turbo at all. Yes on the exshaust, yet on the front mounted intercooler, but I would try and push a little bit more boost out of it. I'd pick up a new fuel pump too, just for the hell of it. Try to find one for a Turbo Supra if you can. I forgot to mention this too, I don't know if you guys do this but every time i raise boost i only go ONE PSI at a time, check it, drive it a while, then up it one psi again, repeat.

Those cars make me nervous. They are very touchy. The head gaskets like to let go alot. make sure you boost your fuel pressure also or else youll start detonating and blow it sky high. Detonating is when you have more boost than fuel and sometimes you cant even hear it. they do sell gauges to moniter your detonation. they are called knock gauges. they are real ccommon with the GN guys.

Just to clear things up, I was under the impression that the 2nd gens came with 16G's stock, checked it out and they don't, my bad. They came with T-25's which experiance bad top end as the boost is rased. A mitsu 16G is considered a good upgrade for a daily driven car, taking some into the 11's. The guy I met with the 1st gen AWD Talon had a 20G, big ass turbo with boost comming on good around 4 G's...

-Ben

yeah I think I'm going either with the 16g or 20g. Kyle says he doesn't want to get it into anything like 500hp yet. We're trying to be realistic.

That's a good attitude to have. Take your time, and organize your mods. Learn from each one so you will be prepared for more. I would reccomend the 16G, should be able to hit 12's with some good fuel management. And you'll still have a usable power band.

-Ben

exelent. how do you adjust your fuel though? I don't want to have to purchase an expensive fuel management system?

The amount of fuel control you'll need depends on how much boost you want to run. At some point, your stock ECU will not be able to compensate with enough fuel for the amount of air you're pushing in. You can go about fixing this in several ways, you can get a fuel pressure regulator to increase the amount of fuel that will flow, allong larger fuel injectors and a higher flowing fuel pump. You can also buy air/fuel ratio controlers or "pigybacks" which "trick" the stock ECU into giving more fuel.
Stand alone fuel management systems like Motec, Haltec, AEM EMS and TEC are complete seperate computers that replace the factory ECU, they take care of fuel and spark dilivery. They can range in price from about $1,000 to $5,000 or more depending.
Talk to Uglystick, he has a Haltec system for his BMW...

-Ben