Coachella Valley Street Racing

Well, it all depends on what you plan to do, and what you plan to spend.

That motor can only handle a little over 300whp stock. Anything over that, you will need to build it. And thats where it gets really expensive. I am going to assume you do not plan on building the motor.

The process of buying a turbo kit can be very complicated because of a few reasons:

One, the obvious is price vs. performance. How much do you want to spend, for how much power. For example, two very good friends of mine have turboed civics. One has a $5500 full-race kit, that is good for around 700whp. The other a $3000 rev-hard kit good for around 500whp. But remember what I said, the stock motor is only good for 300whp, so you are maxing out your stock motor w/ both. So if you never plan on buliding, what is the point of a huge turbo kit.

Two, the bigger the turbo, the more flow it needs to spool, thus the higher rpm's it takes to get into boost. And with these small Honda engines, it takes a lot of RPM's to get a big turbo to spool. So in a race between the two, the smaller turbo civic is going to pull the other out of the hole, but once the bigger turbo car spools, it will catch up and pass the other car very fast. That is a reason why Supras are such highway monsters; huge turbos that work best at high rpm's, like on the highway.

Third, most turbo kits (like the Revhard kit) come w/ an FMU. The FMU increases the fuel pressure to feed the turbo. Without it you wont have enough gas to power the motor at high RPM while the turbo is in boost. The problem with FMU, is it is mechanical, and runs on vacume. So there is a greater margin of error. In a turbo car, running lean = death. Running lean causes detonation, whick caused blown motors. Running lean is caused by too much air, and not enough fuel. With the FMU being run off of vacume, any variance in vacume can cause less fuel to be delivered to the motor, causing detonation, causing a blown motor. So what have we learned from that? FMU = death. So, to get back to my whole point, whit every kit, you get an FMU, but if you run Hondata you dont need to use the FMU.

(Hondata: Hondata is a chip that is installed into your ecu. It basically lets you tell every compenent of your engine what to do. So, with hondata, you don't need to run FMU, because you can just tell the computer to push more fuel into the engine. Get it?)

Hondata is going to run you about $500 plus tuning. But once you have Hondata and are tuned, you are virtually safe. Hondata is the safest way to run a turbo car. Believe me, I know. I have a good friend that has blown 2 motors running FMU.

So, as far as a turbo kit, here is my reccomendations:

Revhard sc34 t3/t04e kit - $approx 3000
Hondata S100 w/ boost option - $800 (chip/tune)
Add a little extra incase you need anything else, just to be safe.

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Exaust.

You will not want to go ANY smaller than 2.5". With 3" being optimal. But remember, the bigger the exaust, the nastier it will sound all motor. Imagine a stock motor Honda, running around w/ 3" exaust (BVWAAAAAAAGGGGG....BVWWWAAAAGGGGGGGG)

lol

Her id what I would suggest to you, since you only want to buy one exaust:

3" exaust, with a baffeled muffler while stock. When you go turbo get a Magnaflow straight thru muffler, and sell whatever muffler you had on ebay.

Ad regarding a catilytic converter, like with any other turbo exaust system, the less restrictive, the better. Which means, no cat = better. You can always have a test pipe bolted in where a cat goes, so you can put the cat back in if needed.

Well, hope all of that helps. Hope I didnt lose you. Let me know if you have any other questions. =)