Ok what would be the mods to add to this engine, to get out of these engine, i have headers muffler, cold air.

sell motor and get dohc. me, personally, i would go with a b20/vtec (CRV/tec). but i got no money....broke ass me!. but yeah....i would just upgrade the whole motor in general cause in the long run it will be so worth it!

Huh? Ummm restate that. If your asking what you can do to the engine well then i can help....
If you dont' have the cash or the resources to swap the engine for a DOHC (around $4000+), then you can still make decent power with your SOHC.
The best bang for you buck in the long run would be to get GReddy's turbo kit. It cranks Hp up to around the 180 mark at the wheels (a stock integra type r puts out about 165hp to the wheels). The kit can be found for $1400. Comes with everything you need, the downside is you'll be ditching your header and intake. You'll be more than happy with the results though, can take out most B-series powered hondas, lots of torque.
Turbo would be the best route in my opinion, another option would be to spray on it, get yourself a $600 nitrous kit and spray a 75 shot. But, you have to refill the bottle after about 10 runs and it's not on demand like a turbo. You could run about 8psi safely on a stock D16 block with a turbo.

Should i do any internal work to the engine,

For the GReddy Turbo kit or ONLY a 75 shot, usually no internal work is needed only running at no more than 7 or 8psi. But if you have the cash and this isn't your daily driver, spend some money and build up the bottom end.
Get new rods, new pistons, and install a block guard. With these mods you could run a cool 15-18psi and run upwards of 240-250 hp (or more) at the crank. Dont forget to install upgraded fuel and ignition parts too. New 255lph pump, new injectors, maybe a MSD ignition etc etc.
If I had your engine I would do the following:

Stage 3 clutch
Lightweight Flywheel
GReddy Turbo Kit
ZEX #53900 cam, works good with boost/nitrous
ZEX springs and retainers
Chip the ecu for a 8200rpm rev limit

The Edelbrock turbo kit on their '00 Civic Ex @ 7psi made 176hp and 147lbs at the wheels, with the ZEX cam and lightweight flywheel you should be able to do these numbers or better for sure. Using a 1/4mile calculator based on weight and hp, this combo in a 96 EX sedan with driver would net around a 14.19 quarter mile time. A stock integra typeR runs it in i think 14.7ish. It would be a fun street car for sure that would suprise alot of GSR's.

well this is my idea now, i will keep this engine as a daily drive engine, once im done with it, like i said as my daily drive engine i want to drop it on a crx, and get a new engine for my civic, that way i can keep crx as daily drive with the d16, and hopefully i would be able to get a GSR engine for my civic, this a long term proyect but i need to know what i want so i know what to do with this engine, now if i want to keep this engine
how can i get more power out of it with out turbo, and then with a small turbo setup like you said arround 7-9 psi. All this keeping in mind this is going to be my daily drive, now should i do some internal work, even just with the small turbo setup. if it would be good i might get it done.

And something else,
1- In wich order should i start to get the stuff what first what next and what at the same time. Unfortunatly i dont have the mony to get every thing at the same time so i would need sort of like a order list.
2.- i dont know a lot about clutch and fly wheels so if you could advice me a bit about em , just like a quick reference.

And thanks for all the ideas.

Sounds like a good plan. The only thing that might be a headache is putting an OBD2 engine in your OBD0 crx. Wiring is going to suck, but i'm sure you can have a harness made from Hasport or something similar.

Without the turbo, you could probably get this engine making around the 160hp mark at the flywheel (B16 numbers) all motor. But the thing is, you have to decide whether it's going to be all motor or turbo before you start buying too many parts. All motor will like high compression stuff with lots of cam duration while turbo stuff will like low compression with near stock duration. In order to save time and money you need to decide if it IS going to be a turbo car sometime in the future or if it's going to be all motor. With the small turbo setup, you don't need any internal work. Only when you want to crank up the boost should you do any work, but if you keep it at 7psi....you're fine with the stock stuff.
If your planning on turbo'ing later, the things you could get right now would be:
ZEX #59300 cam
ZEX D16Y8 springs and retainers
Clutch and Flywheel
And i wouldn't do any spur of the moment shopping until you get the turbo, like seeing a killer deal on an intake or something similar that all motor related. Then once you get the cash together you can slap on the turbo and go nuts with it.

The clutches are rated on clamping force. How hard they will grab until they start slipping and not putting your power to the ground. Stage 1 clutches are usually organic and look similar to the stocker, but have more brass so they can grab better. Stage 2 clutches will use kevlar or a mixture of different material, they still have the stock disc shape, but are somewhat "pucked" and have friction surfaces that you can see on them. The stage 3 clutches (or the strip trim) are puck clutches. The have 3,4, or 6 ceramic friction plates. I'm running one of these now and they are VERY grabby, they like to make the car shutter sometimes when working through traffic, but they hold tight. Then there's multi-plate clutches. Companies like EXEDY are know for these, they can handle whatever you can throw at them but cost WAY too much. It's not very common to see someone running a multi-plate clutch on a street driven honda.
Usually when your choosing between clutch levels they will say how much it can hold. "holds up to 300hp" etc etc. For drivability, you'll probably be making around 200hp with your turbo SOHC, shoot for the clutch that can handle 250-300hp. I like to go up a level just cuz i beat on my clutch and hate slipping.

For flywheels, you can go with a lightweight from ZEX or ClutchMasters. Some people say stay clear of aluminum flywheels but i have yet to run into any problems with mine (warping due to high heat). The lighter flywheel is less rotating mass on your engine so it can rev faster and make more power. Same idea with the underdrive pulleys you read about. Less weight for the engine to have to spin= more hp. You'll be able to accelerate quicker too. When i put it on my car before the swap, i noticed my 3rd gear pulled ALOT harder and more power in 1st and 2nd.