ok ...its just about to hit the one month mark since ive done a swap to my car. if u dont know ive done a b16 swap to my car. now to me its like..now what..what next. ive already done the simple stuff to add to the swap like headers exhaust and intake. plus ive gotten my ecu chipped. i get pissed off sometimes when ppl see my motor and are just like..HAHA UR A RICER ALL U HAVE IS HEADERS, EXHAUST, AND INTAKE..when in all actuallity i got rid of the sohc piece of shit and have done alot to the car in a whole.(motor wise) anyway..im just asking for suggestions on what to do. me, i kinda wanted to just go ahead and switch out the cams,shafts,clutch,flywheel,maybe underdrive pulley, etc. basucally i just wanna build up internals first then work my way to turbo in the end.

TODA Cams(must buy the valves and valvesprings with it) , thats enough to keep you savign money for the time being, and probably longer.

thx man..ill check into that.

Yeah, the cams are crazy expensive by themselves....and the fact that they wotn work without the retainers, valves, and springs is ridiculously expensive.

ahhhh fooey on TODA. Don't get me wrong, they make some kit ass shit (itb's and cams), but they cost way too damn much. If it was my B16 i would:

Get the ZEX/CompCams camshafts for it, they give something like a SOLID 20whp and 15lbs, deffinately look into them. And the cams are under $500 for a pair brand new. The matching springs are recommended. I'm running CompCams right now and haven't had a problem yet with reliablility or performance. Remember to get like the Stage 2 cams, the stage 1 street cams are stupid and the same price as the stage 2 and 3, get your money's worth. They are turbo friendly cams btw....
You really just need to decide whether you're going to stay NA or are going forced induction, cuz it'll help save money down the road.
For NA:
Build up the head, Port/Polish it, have it milled 0.030", new springs and retainers from ZEX, ZEX cams, cam gears, new intake manifold.
For Boost:
Get the cams, valve springs, and retainers. Get the turbo, worry about a port n polish job later.

Something to think about though; maybe start to build up a B20 bottom end on the side? I've seen lots of dyno charts on Honda-Tech.com of 230whp and 160lbs B20/V builds....all you would need to do is build yourself a bottom end, you have all the other shit you need on your B16 engine. Don't forget that B20 have a 84mm bore and B16/B18's have 81mm, so you can't swap pistons, need customs or make the valve reliefs on the piston top bigger/deeper.

now take that B16 out and drop a 1.8 in

ha ..i will..with time. but it wont be a 1.8. most likely a 2.0 b20